Page 24 - مجله بازار چرم و کفش - شماره 210

‫ﺑﺨـﯿــﻪدوزي ﮐﯿـﻒ و ﮐــﻔﺶ‬
‫‪oBíy ô ïBg kAõì pG ûôçÎ Ao þâlðqôk ið ÁAõg‬‬
‫‪óly îßdì‬‬ ‫‪ið .lñÞ|þì òýýÏO }oBPgBu ,ó@ ÿBø|úPyo‬‬ ‫‪ÿoôBñÖ‬‬
‫‪QùW ôk‬‬ ‫‪ûly êýßzO ÿA|ûlýGBO îøok ÿBø|úPyo qA þâlðqôk‬‬
‫‪ô |s| þâlýGBO‬‬ ‫‪Bü ôk ëõíÏì oõÆ úG ô àü ÿAoAk îÞ Quk úÞ QuA‬‬ ‫ﺧﻮاص ﻧﺦ دوزﻧﺪﮔﯽ را ﻋﻼوه ﺑﺮ ﻣﻮاد ﺧﺎم و‬
‫‪k Bü QuAo‬‬ ‫^‪óAõO|þì Ao ÁAõg òüA .QuA ûly êýßzO úPyo lñ‬‬
‫‪Bu ÿ|úGpÛÎ‬‬ ‫ﺷﻤﺎر رﺷﺘﻪﻫﺎي آن‪ ،‬ﺳﺎﺧﺘﺎرش ﺗﻌﯿﯿﻦ ﻣﯽﮐﻨﺪ‪ .‬ﻧﺦ‪ÿqôk|úýhG QýøBì‬‬
‫‪ýyBì ÿApG‬‬ ‫‪| |.kpÞØüpÏOpüqRB¿hzìBG‬‬ ‫دوزﻧﺪﮔﯽ از رﺷﺘﻪﻫﺎي درﻫﻢ ﺗﺎﺑﯿﺪهاي ﺗﺸﮑﯿﻞ ﺷﺪه‬
‫‪Apüq lñPvø‬‬ ‫‪| |oBPgBu‬‬ ‫اﺳﺖ ﮐﻪ دﺳﺖ ﮐﻢ داراي ﯾﮏ و ﺑﻪ ﻃﻮر ﻣﻌﻤﻮل دو‬
‫‪ÿpO|îßdì‬‬ ‫‪| |þâlýGBO‬‬ ‫ﯾﺎ ﭼﻨﺪ رﺷﺘﻪ ﺗﺸﮑﯿﻞ ﺷﺪه اﺳﺖ‪ .‬اﯾﻦ ﺧﻮاص را‬
‫|‪|þì êy |s‬‬ ‫ﻣﯽﺗﻮان ﺑﺎ ﻣﺸﺨﺼﺎت زﯾﺮ ﺗﻌﺮﯾﻒ ﮐﺮد‪.‬‬
‫‪üpÊ ÿBø|ið‬‬ ‫^‪| |ókõG ælñ‬‬ ‫‪ t‬ﺳﺎﺧﺘﺎر‬
‫‪ið‬‬ ‫‪ t‬ﺗﺎﺑﯿﺪﮔﯽ‬
‫^‪kõG æ lñ‬‬ ‫‪ t‬ﭼﻨﺪ ﻻ ﺑﻮدن‬
‫‪oBPgBu‬‬ ‫‪ t‬ﻧﺦ‬
‫‪âtüô òüA‬‬ ‫ﺳـﺎﺧﺘﺎر ﻧـﺦ‪ ،‬ﻧـﻮع ﯾﮑﺎﯾـﮏ رﺷـﺘﻪﻫﺎ را ﺗﻌﯿﯿـﻦ‬
‫‪ð pTÞA .koAk‬‬ ‫‪ô lñÞ|þì òýýÏO Ao Bø|úPyo àüBßü Ñõð ,ið oBPgBu‬‬ ‫ﻣﯽﮐﻨـﺪ و ﺗﺎﺑﯿﺪﮔـﯽ‪ ،‬ﭼﻨـﺪ ﻻﯾـﯽ ﺑـﻮدن و ﻧـﺦ ﻧﯿﺰ‬
‫‪ýßzO úPyo‬‬ ‫‪ÿBøpPìAoBK rýð ið ô ókõG þüæ lñ^ ,þâlýGBO‬‬ ‫ﭘﺎراﻣﺘﺮﻫـﺎي ﺳـﺎﺧﺘﺎري ﻋﻤﻮﻣـﯽ ﺗﻤﺎم رﺷـﺘﻪﻫﺎ را‬
‫‪Bü àü þhð‬‬ ‫ﺗﺎﺑـﯿـ‪Bu‬ﺪ‪Pg‬ﮔ‪oB‬ـ‪ÿ‬ـ‪õíÎ‬ﯽ‪| |.lñÞ|þìòýýÏOAoBø|úPyoïBíOþì‬‬ ‫ﺗﻌﯿﯿـﻦ ﻣﯽﮐﻨـﺪ‪.‬‬
‫‪ì pSA îø ið‬‬ ‫‪| | þâlýGBO‬‬
‫‪úu oBPgBu‬‬
‫‪øk|þì Quk‬‬ ‫ﻧﺦ و رﺷـﺘﻪ ﺗﺎﺑﯿﺪه ﻫﺴـﺘﻨﺪ‪ .‬در اﯾـﻦ ﻓﺮآﯾﻨﺪ ‪ð‬و‪i‬در‪o ô‬ﺣﺎ‪y‬ﻟ‪P‬ـ‪ú‬ﯽ‪GBO‬ﮐ‪ý‬ـ‪l‬ﻪ‪ û‬ﻧـ‪ø‬ﺦ‪ñPv‬دا‪l‬را‪.‬ي‪ok‬ﺗﺎ‪A‬ﺑ‪ü‬ﯿﺪ‪ò‬ﮔ‪Ö‬ـ‪@p‬ﯽ‪èA lsñü‬ﺷ‪ý‬ـ‪B‬ﻞ‪Bü Ù‬‬
‫‪A æ ôk ið‬‬ ‫اﻟﯿـﺎف ﯾﺎ رﺷـﺘﻪﻫﺎ در ﻣﺤﻮر ﻃﻮﻟـﯽ درﻫﻢ ﺗﻨﯿﺪه ‪yo‬ﻣ‪|úP‬ﯽ‪ø‬ﺷ‪B‬ـ‪k‬ﻮ‪o‬د‪ì.‬ﻧ‪d‬ﺦ‪õ‬ﻫ‪o‬ـﺎ‪Æ‬ي‪èõ‬ز‪þ‬ﻣ ‪k‬ﺨ‪øo‬ﺖﺗ‪î‬ـﺮ‪ýñO‬در‪ûl‬ﻣﻘ‪y‬ﺎﯾ‪ðõ‬ﺴ‪l‬ـ‪ô‬ﻪ ﺑ‪ø‬ـﺎ‪òýí‬‬
‫ﺷـﻮﻧﺪ و ﻫﻤﯿـﻦ ﺗﺎﺑﯿﺪﮔﯽ و اﺳـﺘﺤﮑﺎم ﺣﺎﺻﻞ از ‪GBO‬ﻧ‪lý‬ﺦﻫ‪â‬ـﺎ‪þ‬ي‪A ô‬ﻇ‪u‬ﺮ‪P‬ﯾ‪d‬ﻒﺗ‪ß‬ـ‪B‬ﺮ‪ ï‬ﺗﺎ‪c‬ﺑ‪B‬ﯿ¾ﺪﮔ‪ê‬ـ ‪A‬ﯽ‪@ q‬ﮐ‪ó‬ﻢﺗ‪A‬ـﺮ‪u‬ي‪ Q‬د‪Þ‬ار‪ú‬ﻧـ‪BG‬ﺪ‪UÎ.‬‬
‫آن اﺳـﺖ ﮐـﻪ ﺑﺎﻋﺚ ﻣﺤﮑﻢ ﺷـﺪن ﻧﺦ ﻣﯽﺷـﻮد‪.‬‬
‫ﺗﺎﺑ‪O‬ﯿ‪GB‬ﺪ‪ý‬ﮔ‪âl‬ﻰ ا‪A þ‬س )‪(Sx‬‬ ‫ﺗﺎﺑ‪O‬ﯿ‪GB‬ﺪ‪ý‬ﮔ‪âl‬ﻰ ز‪þ‬د‪(Zk)q‬‬ ‫دو ﺟﻬـﺖ ﺗﺎﺑﯿﺪﮔـﯽ را ﺑﺮاﺳـﺎس ﺟﻬـﺖ‬

‫ﺗﺎﺑﯿﺪﮔـﯽ ﻧـﺦ ﺗﺎﺑﯿﺪﮔـﯽ ‪ s‬و ‪ z‬ﻣﯽﻧﺎﻣﻨـﺪ ﮐـﻪ‬

‫ﮔﺎﻫـﯽ ﻫـﻢ ﺗﺎﺑﯿﺪﮔـﯽ ﭼﭗ و راﺳـﺖ ﯾﺎ درﺳـﺖ‬

‫ﺟﻬـﺖ ﻋﻘﺮﺑـﻪي ﺳـﺎﻋﺖ و ﺧـﻼف ﻋﻘﺮﺑـﻪي‬

‫ﺳـﺎﻋﺖ ﻫـﻢ ﻣﯽﻧﺎﻣﻨـﺪ‪ .‬ﻧـﺦ داراي ﺗﺎﺑﯿﺪﮔـﯽ‬

‫‪ z‬ﺑـﺮاي ﻣﺎﺷـﯿﻦﻫﺎي دوزﻧﺪﮔـﯽ اﺳـﺘﺎﻧﺪارد‬

‫ﻣﺘﻨﺎﺳـﺐﺗﺮ ﻫﺴـﺘﻨﺪ زﯾـﺮا ﺑـﻪ ﻋﻠـﺖ وﺿﻌﯿـﺖ‬

‫ﺳـﻮزن و ﻗـﻼب ﺣﺎﻟـﺖ ﻣﺤﮑﻢﺗـﺮي ﻣﯽﯾﺎﺑﻨـﺪ‬

‫‪|1385òíùG| 73ûoBíy| 18‬‬ ‫ﭼﻨﺪ ﻻ ﺑﻮدن‬
‫اﯾـﻦ وﯾﮋﮔـﯽ ﻣﺸـﺨﺺ ﻣﯽﮐﻨـﺪ ﻫـﺮ ﻧـﺦ ﭼﻨﺪ‬

‫ﻧ‪ð‬ﺦ‪i‬د‪k‬و‪ô‬ﻻ‪æ‬‬ ‫ﻧ‪ð‬ﺦ‪i‬ﺳ‪u‬ﻪ‪|ú‬ﻻ‪æ‬‬ ‫‪|ý|yóükóßQqoz@ikR|uq|õþOð|AGk|BÿoúÁ¿þæâBúPPBolyâhgÞølBýAPloõiñ|BúGzQgu^BgðlPOðqìByñôuu^BkoGA‬ﺑﺑﺑ‪Pô‬ﯾ‪p,‬روﻣ‪Þ‬ﮐدـﻻ‪q‬ﺣﯾﻬﻌﻪ‪úO‬ـ|رﯾ‪ðê‬ﺎﺷﺮﺘﻨﻟﮋ‪î‬ﯽاـ‪Ï‬ﻪﻧــ‪ø‬ﻣــ‪l‬ﮔﻃد‪u‬ـ‪B‬ﺎﺘا‪yp‬ﺮ‪k‬ــيﯽ‪âB‬ﻫ‪Aü‬ﯽﻪاﺷﺣ‪l‬ﺖﻮﺦـﻧ‪o‬زا‪ÿ‬ﯽ‪g‬ـﺘر‪ûA‬ﯾ‪þ‬ﺳﻓزﺪدﯿ‪ØP‬دﺦ‪.‬ا‪A‬ﺒـﻤﮐ‪B‬ﻣ‪k‬وﺎ‪o‬رﻫـﺸﺎ‪ÿ‬دﻧﺗ‪oAÞ‬ﻌﻦ‪o‬ﺎ‪u‬ــردوـﺖﺮ‪ü.‬ﺎﻻﻫ‪p‬ﻤ‪ø‬ﮐﺮاﯾلﺎ‪Î‬ااﺦا‪k‬ـﻮز‪Q‬دـي}ز‪î‬ﮐﺎﺳهﺮ‪.‬ﻧيﺟ‪çà.‬لﻧ|ﺗدﺜـﺎ‪O‬دز|‪A‬ـﺑ‪ô‬وـﺮﺗﺦ‪B‬دﺳ‪O‬ﻣ‪üô‬ﺎ‪ûG‬وﺮوـﺑﻻﺖﺠﺦ‪Ï‬ود‪ýG‬ﯾزﺨﺎﯿ‪G‬ﻪ‪ý‬ﻧﻧ‪ò‬وـزـﻇﯾ‪ýlú‬ﺳﯾﺪ‪p‬ﺎﺪرﻻﺦﺷﮑ‪|û‬ـ‪g‬ﮔﺮﯽﻫ‪A‬ﮔااـﺖﻫﻮ‪Æòì‬ﺷـﻪـ‪õ‬اـﻧــ‪A‬اﺳ‪õõ‬ﺪﻣﺮﺎ‪ÿA‬ﺘﺧﻤـﯽ‪o‬ﻘﻻﯽﺳﻧنـ‪k‬ﺘ‪ì‬ﻪﺑ‪O‬ــﺎدﻄﺗ‪ì‬ﮐﻔﯿﺖﺗﺘ‪Á‬ﺧوﺎﺎﺎﺗﻌ‪þÏ‬ﺦﺑ|‪gz‬ﻔـيرـدﺸ‪Bo‬ﯾﯿﺎﺸ‪íA‬ﻮ‪Þ‬ﮐهـﺮﯽ‪ß‬ﻫﺗــد‪ñï‬ﺪـد‪õ‬ﺎﺘ‪ý‬ـه‪ì‬ﮑﺨدﮔيﮐﺮﺷﺮا‪ôl‬ﯿﻢاﺎ‪ë‬ﯾـ‪ê‬دﺳ‪þ‬ز|‪.‬ارﯽدﺮﺖيﻮﺛاﺑـ‪O‬ﻞﺗ‪yk‬هﻫـرداﻬ‪õy‬ﻧـﻪﺎﭼ‪ô.‬ﺳد‪íðA‬ﺮاﺘﺷـﻨﺮـ‪Bl‬رو‪ü‬يــﺎـﻣﺪﻻ‪óBûio‬دﺑ‪.‬ﺮيﺟ‪.‬ﺪﺧﺪﺑﻪـﯽهﺑﺘﻫايـدﻧﺎﻮﮔﻨاﺟدﺎرـﻪﺴدرﺑﺪدﻬا‪.‬ـﺳدﺮﺬﺘو‪ì‬ر‪.‬ااادﺘـﺳﯾاـﯾﯾردﻨـرﮋ‪d‬د‪k‬وﺖﯽﻦدﺪﻦ‪.‬هﻪ‪lìýiGBðOóQlùyWîôß‬ﻧ‪âð‬ﺦ‪i|þ‬ﭼ‪^yþ‬ﻬ‪õ‬ﺎ‪où‬ر‪BkA‬ﻻ‪xBuAp|æ|G.o‬‬

‫‪QèBc òüApGBñG .koAk ÿpPzýG þâlýGBO ëõíÏì‬‬ ‫‪ið‬‬ ‫‪þâlýGBO‬‬ ‫‪QùW‬‬
‫‪ok ûtüô úG .lðoAk ÿpO|QgAõßü ô pO|ûkpzÖ‬‬
‫‪ð ,1i8ð oBPgBu‬ﺷ‪õ‬ﻤـ‪Ñ‬ـﺎ‪ü‬ره‪l2ü1B0ß‬ﺧ‪à‬ـــ‪o‬ﺮدا‪y‬د‪ëBíPcA úÞ þPùW lñ^ oBÞkõg þâlðqôk ÿBø|òýyBì ô M^ þâlýGBO îø þøBâ úÞ lñìBð|þì z| ô |s| þâlýGBO ô lñÞ|þì òýýÏO Ao B1ø40|ú0P‬‬
‫‪ið qA QuA pPùG koAk kõWô Bø|þâlýGBO óly BXGBW Ùçg ô QÎBu ÿ|úGpÛÎ QùW Quok Bü QuAo ÿBøpPìAoBK rýð ið ô ókõG þüæ lñ^ ,þâlýGBO‬‬
‫‪| |.kõyûkB×PuAæôk |z| þâlýGBO ÿAoAk ið .lñìBð|þì îø QÎBu ÿ|úGpÛÎ | |.lñÞ|þìòýýÏOAoBø|úPyoïBíOþìõíÎÿoBPgBu‬‬
‫‪| | þGBñÆ ið pO|IuBñPì koAlðBPuA þâlðqôk ÿBø|òýyBì ÿApG‬‬
‫‪lñPvø úPyo QuAo Bü þdÇu àü ÿkBÎ ÿBø|ið QèBc JçÚ ô óqõu QýÏÂô QéÎ úG Apüq lñPvø‬‬ ‫‪| | þâlýGBO‬‬